Back in the kitchen!

Helloooooo family, friends, neighbors, readers.  Happy Memorial Day weekend!  It’s been a while and I’m sorry for the unexplained absence.  Thanks for all the notes and emails in the mean time.   The last couple months were spent traveling (some work, some pleasure) and while I had a blast it feels amazing to be back in the kitchen. Something like the relief of stretching a sore muscle, but exponentially greater.

I had the good fortune of spending part of this time roaming around France with my mother. To say it was incredible is an understatement. To say it was life changing is dramatic. But, sometimes it takes removing yourself from your element and from your world to regain a sense of who you are, and this is exactly what happened to me.

Not surprisingly, I tend to experience culture through food and the sharing of a meal. Here’s what I found in France….

A conversation with a cab driver about his artichokes. There wasn’t enough rain this year. They’re not doing well. He plants them carefully, 80 cm apart, every year.

A recipe for curing olives. A labored process. A well-earned treat. Soaking, boiling, brining. Fleur de sel, fennel, coriander, rosemary. No need to preserve them, since the family will eat them long before that is needed. .

A single baguette. Kneaded by hand. Children peeking into the oven. Warm just in time for the evening meal.

Violets. Carefully brushed in egg white and painted with sugar. Preserving those precious little jewels for another day.

The first day of the season the people of Nice are allowed to burn the trimmings from their gardens. The bonfires that dot the hills. The savory smell of foil packets of lamb and herbs, roasting, cooking beneath the cinders.

Tiny gem-like strawberries, picked at their peak. Juice ripened by the sun.

The creamiest of goat cheese. Wrapped in paper and tied with string. A gift.

Wine at lunch. A slice of lemon with everything.

A softer toned voice.

A Mediterranean breeze.

Simple dishes. Shining flavors. Food grown with love and made by hand.

Slow food. Quiet food.

Here’s what I realized about myself in France: I’ve been taking everything too quickly. Rushing. Fighting against the stream, and myself. Not appreciating. Not loving. Worrying too much about pressures I don’t care about. Consuming. Living a bit too hard. In the fast lane, as someone dear to me likes to say. Forgetting about my love of quiet nights and nothing more complicated than the laughter of friends. The peace of stirring, sifting, pouring.  The magic of adding heat to flour to egg to leavener and pulling the cake out of the oven. The pride of creating. The dream of spending more time with the people I love.

Course, it’s all so easy to remember in the enveloping warmth of sun, on vacation, a million miles away from Real Life. But, along with a suitcase full of dried herbs and teas and jams and an arsenal of new ideas and recipes, I hope to bring these moments and these philosophies home with me. I’m counting on you guys to hold me accountable ;)  In the mean time, looking forward to sharing a few pictures and some vacation-inspired food with you this summer.

xxJ

Rainy Days and PB&J

Few moments make me happier than the one just waking up, before I open my eyes, when I hear the soft, constant tapping of rain.

I know, I know. Most people are shuddering at the mere suggestion of a drizzle. But, for me, this moment I’m talking about is a savory one. Rain means a brisk morning walk and the smell of eucalyptus trees in Golden Gate park. Salty air on the beach. Afternoon board games. Plump swollen blueberries and fragrant blooms at the next farmer’s market. Buried in blankets with a movie or book. Early bed time. Hot chocolate. Home.

Perhaps more than anything, in a world where we are constantly connected, rain means a reason to shut out the chaos and just be. Stay in the house, cancel plans, forget errands, do nothing. A couple Saturdays ago was a timely example of this wonderful kind of respite. The week prior had been a work nightmare, without a free evening or a moment to breathe. I had a nasty cold and was (not) looking forward to setting out on a lengthy business trip the next day. Friday night I made a daunting list of errands, calls, and all sorts of miscellaneous (yet totally unnecessary) tasks that one always feels mandatory to complete before leaving for any length of time. Yet when Saturday morning rolled around and the alarm clock blasted me awake, rain came as a blessing, lulled me back to sleep, nudged me in the gentlest of ways to take a break.

Of course, in my world, this kind of rain and this kind of break most importantly means baking.

Being a single gal, dinner often means a toasted peanut butter and jelly sandwich and cuppa tea. Well, it was breakfast on this particular morning, in bed, and it also served as the inspiration for my afternoon project. The way the hot bread melts the peanut butter. Swirls with the jam. The crisp light crunch of the toasted crust. Simple. Familiar. Comfort food.

This recipe is a translation of my family’s favorite peanut butter cookie. A layer of homemade strawberry jam and a sprinkling of peanuts roasted in sea salt and, well…. just make sure you have a tall glass of milk on hand.

You’ll Need

  • 2 cups smooth peanut butter
  • 1 cup melted butter
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups jam (homemade or from farmer’s market is preferred)
  • 1 cup roasted, salted peanuts (if you can find them roasted in sea salt, that’s the best…), chopped roughly

Here’s How

  • Preheat oven to 350F. Butter a 9x13x2 inch pan.
  • Beat together the melted butter and peanut butter in a large bowl until well blended. Then add both sugars and beat until light and fluffy, approximately 3-4 minutes.
  • Add vanilla, and then eggs and beat again until fluffy.
  • In a separate bowl mix together the flour, baking powder, soda, and salt.
  • Mix gradually into the butters with an electric mixer.
  • Pour about 2/3 of the dough into the pan and spread evenly. Spread the jam on top of this.
  • Drop the rest of the dough mixture on top of the jam layer. It’s best to crumble with your fingers, so you don’t disrupt the jam layer beneath.
  • Lastly sprinkle the chopped peanuts on top.
  • Place in the oven and bake 45-50 minutes. Turn about halfway through so the top browns evenly.
  • Bars are much easier to slice when they’ve been in the fridge for a few hours, but you can store them in or out at room temp. Enjoy!

A note about these photos ~ The recipes on The Weekly Spoonful are meant to be easy to follow, so I believe in taking real photos that maintain the integrity of the food. So, I would feel guilty if I didn’t tell you that I took these pictures the day after I made them, and the jam wasn’t very gooey anymore after sitting in the fridge over night. I wanted to exaggerate the runny jam so you could see that beautiful ruby color, so I sliced open the bars horizontally and added a bit more. So, point is yours will still be gooey, but not to worry if they don’t look quite like this. Although, the extra jam certainly doesn’t hurt…

MY, OH MEYER…

Somewhere, long after autumn’s baked apples and softly spiced pears have lost their warming allure, after the Christmas cranberries and oranges have been consumed, when spring’s strawberries are only a dream on the horizon and a farmers market feels like a ghost town, there is one ray of hope that never fails to brighten the spirits of this California girl. It’s as if Nature knows that the threat of winter is becoming too real for the west coast, and so it packages up a spot of sunshine and sends it to us in none other than the form of…. the lemon.

Surprised? Then you’ve never had a Meyer. This precious gem is not the mouth-puckering, acid-yellow variety sold in 10packs at Costco and found in buckets at the bar. No. A citrus of the most precious variety, somewhere between a lemon and orange, the Meyer produces a relatively sweet juice. It’s brilliantly floral and richly golden in color. Because they are so finicky and fragile they are a challenge to grow and nearly as difficult to transport, leading many to believe they’re all but extinct. Yet,  somehow, between January and March, here in blessed California, they continue to appear. If and when you find them snatch them up by the bag full and savor that brightness as long as you can. Bake a few tablespoons into your favorite sugar cookie or cake recipe, brew into a lemonade, squeeze over fish and chicken and vegetables, stir into a sweet martini, freeze into sorbet, and sprinkle over anything from cold potato salads to avocados on baguette to smoked salmon and creme fraiche layered over bagels.

My favorite way to stretch out the sacred Meyer is to cook into a lemon curd.  This recipe is inspired by my time living in London, where lemon curd is generously spread over everything from toast to crumpets to scones to cake. The subtle sweetness and creamy texture pair so well with the bright tang and add something special to everything. This recipe makes about 3 cups and will keep for up to 2 weeks when refrigerated. Enjoy, and Happy Winter.

You’ll Need

  • 3 tablespoons of lemon zest and approx 3/4 cup lemon juice – from 6-8 large Meyer lemons
  • 1 1/2 cups fine sugar
  • 1/2 cup plus 4 tablespoons butter
  • pinch of salt
  • 8 eggs

Here’s How

  • Whisk the eggs together until yolks and whites are well blended.
  • Mix the eggs, sugar, lemon zest and juice, and pinch of salt together until well blended.
  • In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the sugar-lemon mixture over medium-low heat.
  • Divide the butter into tablespoons and add to heat. Stir constantly as the butter melts. Be sure to keep the heat low so the eggs do not curdle as you cook.
  • When the butter is completely melted, gently raise heat to medium and cook until the mixture becomes jelly-like.
  • When the mixture just holds its shape as you lift a spoon out of the pan, the curd is finished.
  • Hold a mesh strainer over a bowl and press the curd through the strainer to sift out any bits of curdled egg or pieces of zest. This step is time-consuming but well worth it to get a nice consistency.
  • You should be left with a beautiful pale yellow, creamy curd, dotted with zest. Scoop into jars and store immediately in the refrigerator. Or just spoon onto your favorite lemon cake.  Click HERE for one of my favorite recipes and the one photographed here ~ a tea cake from Ina Garten.

Sunday Chicken Dinner ~ PICCATA

There’s nothing quite like a Sunday evening chicken dinner, especially during the cold winter months.  It’s one of my favorite ways to wrap up a weekend; shuffling lazily around the stove, a football game in the background, a cup of tea at arm’s length.  My roommate Chase and I both did not have to work today, being the Monday after the holiday, so it felt a bit like a cozy Sunday and one that deserved some comfort food.

Piccata is an Italian reference to a method of preparing a dish. It involves pan-frying or sautéing the food and serving with a lemon-butter sauce made from the pan drippings.  My version, made with breaded chicken, capers, and parsley, is particularly traditional in the U.S.  I love how the bright, fresh tang of the lemon juice and the peppery capers complement the nutty brown butter and chicken.  Splitting the chicken breast in half cross-wise and pounding it out helps it cook quicker and keeps it tender.

I prefer mine with a bite of soft potato, but it’s often served with thin spaghettini or angel-hair pasta.  Today I used small red potatoes which are very easy to find this time of year and are much easier to prepare than russets since they are smaller and more tender.

If you would like to make a lighter version cut out the starch entirely and serve with wilted spinach or some fresh arugula. You can also omit the steps of breading and just dredge the chicken in a little flour, salt, and pepper prior to browning.

Since it was just Chase and me today I only made enough for two, but this can be easily doubled. Just keep in mind that you may have to work in batches or use two pans, so I don’t recommend it for large groups.

Have a wonderful week everyone!

 

CHICKEN PICCATA (serves 2)

You’ll Need

  • 1 large boneless, skinless chicken breast, sliced in half cross-wise and pounded out flat (you can ask your butcher to do this when you buy the meat)
  • salt and pepper
  • 1/3 cup of flour
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten
  • 1/2 cup of panko or other plain bread crumbs
  • 1/2 cup of grated parmesan cheese
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice (I used two Meyer lemons), plus extra lemon if you would like to use as a garnish
  • 1/3 cup of chicken broth
  • 2 tablespoons of drained capers
  • 3-4 tablespoons of butter, separated
  • 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
  • small bunch of fresh Italian parsley, chopped

Here’s How

  • Mix together the lemon juice, chicken broth, and capers. Set aside.
  • Mix together the breadcrumbs and parmesan and set that aside.
  • Prepare the chicken by salting and peppering both sides of each half of the breasts.  Make a little assembly line by setting up three large dinner plates (this is going to make your life a lot easier when your fingers are covered in egg). Spread the flour on one, the egg on the second, and the breadcrumbs on the third.  Dredge the pieces of chicken in the flour, then the lightly beaten egg, and finally in the breadcrumb mixture.
  • Set aside 1 tablespoon of the butter. Melt together the rest of it with the olive oil in a large, hot frying pan. Ensure that the entire bottom of the pan is well coated. Drop the chicken breasts in carefully and sauté until just brown, about 4 minutes on each side (if you are omitting the breading it will only take about 3 minutes on each side). I like to use tongs during this whole process ~ it makes everything easier. When the chicken is done transfer to a platter or a baking sheet and set aside
  • Add the lemon juice mixture to the pan and scrape up any little bits left from browning the chicken. Bring to a low simmer, and add the chicken back in. Cover with a lid and continue for another 4-5 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.
  • Place the chicken on dinner plates.  Swirl that last tablespoon of butter into the sauce in the pan and then spoon over the chicken. Serve with “smashed”red potatoes (below) and garnish with chopped parsley and slices of lemon.

 

SMASHED” RED POTATOES (serves 2-3)

You’ll Need

  • 1 pound of small red or gold potatoes
  • a pat of butter, to taste
  • salt and pepper, to taste
  • 1/3 cup of chicken broth
  • chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Here’s How

  • Scrub the potatoes clean. Place in a pot and cover with water and a pinch of salt.
  • Bring to a boil and continue to boil for about 12 minutes, until you can prick the potatoes easily with a fork.
  • Drain the water off of the potatoes. Using a potato masher give them a quick “smash”.
  • Mix in the chicken broth and butter, cover again with a  lid and allow to steam with the chicken broth for about 5-6 minutes.  Garnish with parsley, salt, and pepper.

 

GOODBYE TO 2011…..

 

Evening, my wonderful readers. I hope you’ve all been enjoying the holiday season with friends and family and are looking forward to something fun tonight.  It’s been a little while since my last post (thanks everyone for your patience…) and I thought it might be a good time for a bit of reflection. Bear with me if this seems a little self-indulgent, but this is my spoonful of sugar today and I needed it badly.

Truth be told, the last few weeks have been trying, to say the least.  When life has you down and the holidays compound things by bringing about a peak of emotion and expectation, it can be easy to get a little lost.  Perspective narrows.  Focus blurs.  The world gets heavy and it’s hard to respect and appreciate all that is good.  Today was one of those days I got stuck in this web and caught myself feeling a little sorry for myself.   I had to pause for a second and kick myself, because for the most part 2011 was a wonderful, beautiful, incredible year filled with good memories, friends, love,  and cooking.  It was a year for trying new things, stretching, growing, and searching.  The ride was thrilling.

My favorite holiday film is White Christmas. There’s a very sweet part where Bing Crosby sings “when I’m worried and I can’t sleep, I count my blessings instead of sheep”.  Sounds simple, but it’s easy to forget.  It’s even easier to take some of the most important things (family, friends, health) for granted.  So, today I counted my blessings and found that they were many.  And, with all sincerity, it would not have been such a rewarding year for me if I had not been able to share some of my adventures with all of you, so thank you for your support and continuing to read THE WEEKLY SPOONFUL. I hope there are many “spoons” ahead.  For now, have a safe and happy New Year’s Eve.  ~J